Journal
Places, and why they’re worth the detour
Written after staying, not after reading a press pack.
Ahilya Fort: the philosopher queen’s house on the Narmada
Maheshwar
Brijrama Palace: the palace you arrive at by boat
Varanasi
The Golden Triangle without the chain hotels
Delhi · Agra · Jaipur
SUJÁN Sher Bagh: under canvas in tiger country
Ranthambhore
SUJÁN JAWAI: the quiet kingdom
Jawai
Malji ka Kamra: the haveli that entertained a maharaja
Churu